cars update

the lan-evo autoscale has now gotten the whale tail, and some wide fenders for the rear, and im working on a reverse hood grills like the super GT cars style. been taking it slow, kinda lazy. with the wide fenders, i can now tuck NSX GT 2005 wheels, with almost no rubbing! thats 2.5 offset rims all around, and wide ones in the back, compared to the lancer's original 1.5 narrow wheels all around.
the MR02RM has been fixed and ive started to setup its suspension, it now doesnt take turns as widely, and has a good balance of over/understeer. what i did was change front chamber to -2.5 degrees, change out the ball differential for a standard and much looser gear differential, change the tires to the soft compound type off my MR02MM, and i also changed the motor out for a stock one. since this car has upgraded fets already, with a standard motor its already plenty fast. this makes the car easier to drive, and also much smoother on track (less braking). all in all, i think this car has become what i call a good racer. of course right now the car's setup is only in the ball park, and can most likely get better.
for my three mini Z racer series cars, the MR02's and my MR015, i have setup the motor combination so that the cars are pretty even matched. the MR02RM has fets upgrade and a stock motor, while the MR015 has stock fets and with a mystery brand sports tune type motor. i think the two cars are pretty even in terms of power. my personal car that i race exclusively at the moment, the MR02MM is bone stock in terms of motor and fets, and is probably the heaviest of the three cars. hence in terms of straight line speed it is slow, but my excellent setup on that car, and the cars nimble ability to take turns should prove that a powerful car is not the only fast cars. factor in my experience in running the track (it is in my basement afterall) having a slower car will make racing closer, and hence more intense and fun, i want bumper to bumper racing!!!!

been a while

its been a while since last update, other hobbies etc have kept me occupied. since last time i have gotten my Lacrosse charger, its a pretty sick little piece. fully adjustable current, peak detection, discharge, and cell cycling/conditioning. also i have replaced the chassis of my MR02 to the clear type, so both MR02's have those clear skeleton chassis. i have reverted to using the stock gear diff in my cars, i find they are more trouble free than the ball diff units, and give sharper turn in, abeit it is harder to handle the cars exiting the corners.
AND THE BIG ISH is, i have a lancer EVO VII autoscale that has seen better days. im starting to become paranoid to run the VW golf, so it is becoming a display unit before it accumulates any real damage. so i have converted my MR015HM to the more stable RM configuration, and am restoring the EVO to use on it. being a WRC car, there are roof scoops and such. the scoops are gay, especially when i want to make it a street look car. so i took off the scoops, and was left with not surprisingly a few unsightly holes. since there was already alot of damage to the body work, i decided to break out the epoxy to reinforce broken areas from under side, and have been using bondo to fill the exterior. after several bondo, sand, and prime, i am ready for painting....almost. this is when i decided to fill in the large antenae hole on the roof, since theres already a whole for it in the rear window. this hole is hard to fill, since its so large. but the body work i can say is pretty close to flawless now, the dented or chipped areas are now filled and sanded, and nice and smooth...no wavy body work here.
so now comes time to paint it, soon enough anyway. but i am torn at what color to paint it. my idea was to do it in matte black, with gloss black hood, roof, and trunk. another possibility is 'diamond silver', and with the black hood etc. or do i go candy purple? or all gloss black? or perhaps audi aluminum silver...since i dont want to buy new paint, i must limit to the colors i have, as mentioned above. anyway, feel free to leave a comment if you have an idea what color scheme i should go with! =)

after some practice sessions and 'testing'

summer school begins tmr =O

but thats ok, i have a pretty lax schedule so i should still have plenty of mini z time
one thing about having your own track is that you can practice whenever you want, and generally your skills improve faster...or in my case a lot faster than before. the MR015 is getting to be really fast...so long as you dont flip it cutting the corner dots too aggressively. oh yeah, ozite leaves your car relatively dirty...and i have a piece of who knows what jam my servo, so i had to service my car, no big deal though. still need to put a steering pot from my F1 into my MR02RM, to fix my RM, later i will order a bunch of those pots online and replace one into my F1. just the other day, i ordered a new Lacrosse BC-900 (V33) battery charger/conditioner for my mini Z batteries, the price was right, and i am growing impatient with my current Rayovac ps3, which either overcharges or undercharges the batteries...it blows

those GP850's mentioned earlier are not bad at all, their pretty good actually. im not really sure if they are better than the GP850's that i got long ago, if they actually have more punch, or is it just due to them being new cells that aren't broken in yet. i can only really tell after i get my bc-900 to properly charge and cycle the cells. however the cells are pretty good was my first impression, good punch, punch lasts long, and the cells dump (lose their power) relatively quickly so you aren't left with a set of batteries that aren't really drained, but are insufficient to drive the car at a decent pace. the runtime is certainly not bad, especially if the cells are to be race packs, even for practice they have plenty of juice.

small update

so i did get an autoscale, but the golf r32 instead of the GTi. the body handles quite well considering its a HM, and the CG looks rather high. its a nice body, and surprisingly its holding up well considering the many times i tried to jump the corners with it. overall the MR015HM is handling pretty nicely, and its with very few modifications; ball bearings, stock gear differential packed with Tamiya's anti wear grease, camber knuckles (2 degree), carbon H-plate, and front and rear springs sets. the RM car with the steering issues...well it seems that the POT is fried afterall, so ill need to source out a new pot somewhere.

soon to come will be a review of all the AAA batteries i have used thus far, just need to test the new GP's i got today. theres a new set of GP850's model: GP85AAAHR, with the same shrink wrap as seen of their 1/10 scale competition batteries, and is supposed to offer higher current and voltage than the GP85AAAHC batteries im used to. i do have high expectations for this set of batteries though, since the standard HC series 850's are already pretty good, long runtime yet with consistant punch feel. not to mention the battery's relatively high price tag, $4 per cell, so $18 something after taxes, normal non-hobby AAA NiMH's only cost like $12 max....so lets hope you get what you pay for.

i am now tempted to get the Audi A4 DTM autoscale for collection, its very nice.

i love my track!!!!! its fun, and it has helped me improve my driving skill, and much faster than before. =D

track is done...basically

one problem i just ran into, my RM car was having some crazy steering problem, full lock to one side. it was later found that the issue was one of the wires from the steering pot is not connected to the PCB well, and will need to be resoldered, which ill do in the morning. i also got my tax return back =D, which means im going to go buy that GTi autoscale ive been wanting.
well today i finished the track, well from a funtional point of view. i added 45 degree braces to reinforce the track pieces, as well as add a nicer look to the corners. i then screwed the modular pieces together and cut the plates i got into the corner dots seen in the pics. using a dremel was overkill, and melted the plastic while i was cutting it, so i needed to sand it after, a real 'pain in my assholes'. although my track isnt really portable (cant fit it into a car after dissassembling) it is storable, which was my main goal. i think i can also move it from my basement to the garage if the need ever arose. testing out the track, its actually alot more difficult than it looks...well that or my skills have deteriorate or never existed. currently the track is 8'x12' which is a good size, but is on the small side, i can expand it to 8'x18' in the future, but its probably not likely since at that size it would really take up the whole den in the basement, with a foot or walking space along the wall (only one wall). i really want to add some astro turf to cover the triangular areas, to make it look more realistic, and also adding some weatherstripping, not so much for the car protection but more for reducing the 'pock pock' noise when you hit the walls. when racing i think most of the damage will be from hitting with other cars rather than the barriers. also, today i tested mainly my MR02MM on the track, and found softer compound of tire to be better opposed to the MR015 which would flip with high grip tires.

fixing cars, and maintenance

so i finally got around to fixing my MR02s. well one of them needed fixing, the other was just getting a little TLC. my RM car had a bad servo that needed rebuilding, as well as an antenna that needed to be resoldered to the PCB. another oddity with this car is that although it has 7389 fets, it seemed to run really sluggish. while fixing the servo and antenna, i noticed the ground wire to the PCB was kinda crappy, and resoldering a new ground wire in its place seemed to do the trick!
the PCB:
the offending servo, which caused centering problems (not the pot meter)
the rebuilt servo

my other MR02 (MM) had its ball differential and rear damper plate rebuilt, a new box stock motor swapped in (slower motor to prepare for my new track =]). in addition, i also made a traditional wire in tube type antenna (not pictured) to replace the piano wire ones kyosho provides. i will soon be converting the rest of my cars, save for the F1, to this type of antenna. i dont know if it was just me, but it seemed to be getting less interference, and glitched less with the antenna i rigged up. when i do my next antenna i will be sure to take pics for a how to.

track buildup

from start to end, i will be posting pics and recapping the progression of my track. first, lets list the materials needed; ozite carpet (2x 8'x6'), some duct tape to join the two pieces of ozite, 10x 1"x2"x8' (wood), 6 corner domes, weather stripping foam tape, and some dowelling. the weather stripping and dowelling is not been used yet, as they will be needed as we complete the track. weather stripping is for lining the corners etc, to protect our precious little racers from race damage. the dowels, as will be detailed in the coming posts is for keeping the track pieces together in a modular fashion. as this track is in a non-dedicated space, it needs to be able to be taken apart and stored at relative ease. first thing i did was lay down the ozite, and let it settle for an hour, it will flatten out by itself. then i flipped it over and taped the two pieces together. after taping, i flipped the piece and let it settle some more. to help the edges of the track lay flat better, i used some of the lumber and some weights around the perimeter of the ozite. i then proceeded to take a break, and test out my new MR015 on the ozite. as i had not finalized my track layout by this time, the next step was to the drawing board to make a scale drawing of the track, and figure out the lengths and angles the pieces of wood need to be cut. a compound mitre saw is highly recommended here. here are the pieces after i cut them into the right sizes etc. this is the track layout in test fitting mode, nothing is secured yet. the next steps will be to secure the pieces together, get the foam tape on the corner areas and anywhere else it is likely to crash into in a race. then finally i will cut the corner dots to fit into the 6 'ends' of wood making the corners smoother and more finished looking. the corner dots here are actually cheapy plates from the dollar store, but they do the job well, their low profile allows the cars to ride them, cutting the corner.